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A Buyer's Guide to Bathroom Fixture Refinishing
Ahhh, there's nothing more relaxing than a long soak in a big clawfoot tub. But sometimes no matter how much bubblebath we dump in, the sensual pleasure is dampened (so to speak) by chips and stains on what should be smooth-as-silk, snowy white porcelain enamel. If you've ever mused about having a classic bathtub or sink refinished you may have heard horror stories. Maybe a friend's new finish peeled after only a few months. Maybe it turned as yellow as old floor wax. The culprit may have been an epoxy paint kit from the hardware store, costing less than $20 and slapped on in an afternoon by a do-it-yourselfer. Painting something born to hold water does seem an iffy proposition. Yet putting a new porcelain skin on your cast-iron fixtures requires firing them in an oven, a large-scale industrial operation too cost-prohibitive for individual tubs. Fortunately there's a middle ground: professional reglazing with a two-part urethane enamel, consisting of a resin and catalyst. It's still paint and it will cost more than pocket change. But reputable dealers (who all use some brand of this same product) will often guarantee their work for five years, and with proper care, they say, a well-done job can last a decade or more. You may be able to get a recommendation from a friend. If not, here are some questions to ask when you let your fingers do the walking.
In My Home or In Your Shop?
What Steps Do You Take Before You Paint? Next comes a crucial step: etching the inside of the tub with hydrofluoric acid, which sets up a surface that allows the paint to bond to the porcelain. "If you look at the porcelain under a microscope, it looks like a mountain range," says Charles Wachter, who has been resurfacing tubs and other fixtures in the Washington, D.C., area for almost 40 years. Wachter says that in his shop, preparing the surface of a particularly paint-splattered or roughed-up tub may take up to six hours, while the spray painting itself can be done in just over an hour. Before the paint goes on, the refinishers have to repair any dents or dings, a process similar to the one used to repair car bodies. After sanding to set up adhesion, they fill small nicks with plastic filler and bigger gouges with fiberglass topped with plastic. The fiberglass is stronger, but harder to sand down.
How Much Will It Cost?
How Long Will You Spend on the Painting?
What Colors Can I Get?
What Care Will My Tub Need?
How Long Will It Last?
What Is Your Track Record?
Ideally, you'll find that special someone who can give
your old tub a skin you'll want against your own. Thanks to Charles Wachter and Jim Crowe at Porcelite (10350 Southard Road, Beltsville, MD 20705, (301)595-9131) for all their time and help, and to Ron Allan and the folks at Washington, D.C.'s Brass Knob for the "model" bathtubs. |
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